November 2014 – I wasn’t really looking for another project but I had been toying with the idea of one day picking up a front engine rear wheel drive vehicle like the old Ford Escort Mk II I used to have in the UK. I have some RSS feeds set up and one of them brought a posting for a 1980 Porsche 924 Turbo to my attention. The good parts are that it is front engine rear wheel drive with a manual gearbox, it’s in decent shape and should have the awesome Porsche handling. On the down side, it has been off the road for 17 years, it doesn’t run (no power to the fuel pumps), there are lots of electrical accessories not working, and it’s purple!
I apologise for these bad pictures, it is winter so I’ll have to wait for spring to update with some better ones.
And at long last, here are some slightly better pics,
To Do List
- Fix coolant leak from around water pump – found a way to pressurize the coolant system and found leaks around the thermostat as well as the pump. Made a new water pump gasket using gasket paper from Rick (cheers!) and got a new thermostat seal from CarQuest with a piece of 1″ hose. Cannot get the hose in place without it kinking so will have to order the proper Porsche part, ugh!
- Check slight hesitation at about 4500rpm when accelerating hard
- Find and fix oil leak from around turbo – I noticed the other day that the oil seems to be coming out of the throttle body seal and the intake joints, both were loose. Not sure why so much oil is getting in the intake, could be turbo seals. I’m sure the oil pressure must be fairly high since I’m running 20W50 oil and the temperature has been around 0C lately, that won’t help.
- New shock absorbers all round
- New control arm bushings
- Check/paint rear calipers
- Remove dashboard
- Remove remaining AC stuff in PS footwell
- Fix instrument lights
- Hardly any air coming from defrost vents, fix/replace blower motor – no power getting to blower motor, blower motor does not spin when connected directly to battery
- Paint A arms
and heat shields
- DS electric mirror
not functioning andglass stained – stain covered with blind spot mirror
- Driver’s seat cover repair
- Changed the oil to 10w40 semi synthetic to see if that helps with the oil in the intake.
- I noticed a bit of an exhaust smell when out testing the other day, then the exhaust got really loud! Found that the exhaust mount at the turbo had completely broken off, it’s probably been failing for a while since I had a few muffler hangers that broke. Josh welded it up for me and we drained the oil while we had it jacked up.
- New tires for front Boxster rims – got 2 Falken tires fitted on the front
- Fix the bloody idle hunting / low idle – Had to move the Porker out of the garage so Josh could install new brakes on the Golf. It started fine but then when it had been left on the drive a little while and we had to pop to CT it didn’t want to start again! Had to disconnect the cold start injector suggesting that it is still too rich at idle, so I backed off the idle mixture screw another 1/8 turn ccw.
- Repair/replace hood latch release lever – Picked up a new push/pull cable from CT to replace the old one. Took a while to thread it through the guide holes and had to cut it down by about 1ft but got it done in just over an hour, works great 🙂
- Fix the bloody idle hunting or low idle now! – Leaning towards this being ANOTHER dodgy fuel pump
- Bought another Walbro 255L external fuel pump new old stock, installed it and it was EXACTLY the same!! So I took it off again, emptied the gas and sprayed a load of WD40 in the inlet and put the caps back in, and put the old one back on.
- Then digging around on the internet I found a post talking about an idle mixture adjust screw on the fuel distributor and suggesting that a rich condition at idle sometimes causes idle hunting!! I had been dubious about messing with the mixture since you’re supposed to set it using a gas analyzer and I didn’t realize that there was there was an adjustment for just idle. It all makes sense now, having to disconnect the cold start injector to get it to start sometimes, the idle hunting, the black spark plugs, and the running fine off idle. So I found the screw and adjusted it and the revs immediately climbed from 500rpm up to about 1000rpm. i was seriously tempted to go for a test run but there’s snow all over and the front tires are almost bald so it will have to wait for a while but I’m sure that this must have got it!!
- Check instrument wiring and grounds – the ground strap that goes from the alternator to the intake was frayed so I replaced it. In the process, I found a couple of ground wires nearby that were cracked and corroded so I replaced them as well. It turns out that one of the cracked wires was for the oil pressure gauge so that is reading properly now, nice and steady and not jumping around all over the place, sweet.
- Still struggling with this idle hunting, very strange – please let me know if you have any theories or ideas of something to try.
Tried disassembling and cleaning the WUR, worked for a day and then hunting started again. Tried again and this time the hunting was worse and then it would cut out if you booted it in second gear, definitely doing something though. Tried one last time and blew out the little passages with the air gun … to be tested.
- Starting is still problematic and I have to disconnect the cold start valve sometimes – removed the cold start valve and blew it out while applying 12V to open it.
- Got some spacers made up by Josh and finally got my longer wheel studs so I could install the Boxster rims
- Cleaned Idle Air Control Valve and fixed bad wire on connector
- Installed new LED side marker bulbs in the front
- Muffler hanger broke AGAIN! Used thicker plate to repair, hopefully the Mk3 will hold up
- Installed brand new fuel filters, both in the engine bay and the in line filter.
- Removed and cleaned the cold start valve, it was a bit coked up.
- Adjusted the return spring on the clutch pedal.
- Cleaned the Idle Air Control valve
August 2019 - show more
- Drained gas tank again and got more crap out with the brush, cleaned the in line filter and got more crap out than I hoped but it cured the slight idle hunting I was getting.
- Figured out how to start it when it’s acting up, if I disconnect the cold start valve it fires up, the revs climb slower than normal but it does actually start. I suspect that the cold start valve is pouring fuel in rather than spraying, if it doesn’t sort itself out I’ll take it out and clean or replace it.
June 2019 - show more
- In line filter at tank is not getting as much dirt in it now. Drove to work for 3 days but then it wouldn’t start again ugh, started fine the next day but removed the metallic filter at the front and cleaned a load of crap out of that
- Drain gas tank and get all the crap out, or replace – drained twice and brushed out a load of gunk and tried blowing out with air
- Keep having idle hunting and starting issues. Cleaned the inline fuel filter several times and it seemed to be running ok so I drove it to work on Monday but it wouldn’t start in the afternoon so had to call CAA for a tow!! Not impressed! Got it started at home but the fuel pump was very quiet. Checked that it was getting power and it was good – now I’m wondering if the fuel pump is going bad, I have an in-tank pump from the RX8 that I might see if I can install.
May 2019 - show more
- Had another look at the horn, checked functionality by connecting direct to 12V, they work. Hooked up a check light and found no power getting to the horns, basically re-discovered that the horn fuse (#1) has a bad connection! I should have looked on here!
- Gas is seeping from the bottom of the tank again, need new rubber seal – drained the gas and found the old seal was trashed, turned to powder trying to get it out, the guy at CarQuest gave me an O ring that fits!
- Check nut on engine mount again – seems fine
- Top up coolant – at max fill line
- Check oil pressure sender – has 2 wires on it, one for gauge and one for light, the light wire is soldered on, the gauge appears to have a bad connection somewhere
- Took quite a few turns on the boost controller before it started having any effect on the boost. On the last run, the boost gauge signal line blew off the T adapter, the line to the boost controller also got knocked off while replacing the gauge line. Put a tie wrap on the gauge line, think I should see about getting a 1/4″ T with adapter to 1/8″.
With the boost turned up a bit, the car drives much better. Stock was about 6 psi boost, getting up to 7 or 8 psi now.
- Had another look at the blower motor, no power seems to be getting to the motor and the motor does not spin even when connected directly to the battery. Could not remove the flap, seems like it’s going to break.
- With the boost controller backed right off, we’re seeing about 6 or 7 psi of boost, dialled the controller in 1.5 turns.
- Fixed a kink in the boost gauge signal line that was causing no boost reading
- Moved the boost gauge wire to the radio so that it is lit up when the ignition is on – it is tinted so hard to see even in daylight.
- Connected the boost gauge light wire to the oil pressure gauge signal wire so that the boost gauge is lit when the ignition is on but the oil pressure gauge went maxxed out??
April 2019 - show more
- Fix coolant leak – the bolt that was holding the wastegate vacuum line was also clamping a component to the head, I had not replaced the bolt when removing the vacuum line
- Install new rear brake rotors
- Install boost gauge ($45) and controller (used $20) – removed clock, moved oil pressure over
- Install new lower radiator hose
Previous - show more
- Install new rear brake rotors
- Install new lower radiator hose
- Fix broken wires around fire wall
- Install another new head gasket!
- Replace cracked elbow on turbo
- Replace waste-gate -got a TurboSmart 38mm from super neighbour Troy!
- Replace engine mounts – not needed right now, thought it was broken but the nut had simply fallen off
- Replace damaged injector – new ones from RockAuto should be here this week
- Put new nut on engine mount
- Replace damaged timing belt
- WTH, I installed a new head gasket!! Have I really not updated this since then?
- Replace transaxle oil, 17mm allen key – Replaced with Lucas synthetic
- Rubber hanger broken at cat – repaired with hose clamp
- Exhaust split at muffler – new piece welded in
- Engine tapping – adjusted valve screws, camshaft and followers replaced
- Look at wrapping – Rick paid $3000 for the Dinero wrap
- Repair paint damage – most areas filled, sanded and painted matte black
- Safety inspection – only failed on fuel hose routing, holes in rear bumper??? and opening hatch – all passed
- Replace rear speakers, install door speakers? – Installed Fiero seats with speakers in headrests and sub-woofer
- Front alignment – CT
- Replace tires – BFGoodrich gForce Sport Comp2 on interest free at CT
- Grating sound coming from PS front wheel, bearing – bearings re-greased
- Coughs and sputters over 3500rpm – checked for leaks in intake with smoke machine, all good, check fuel pump, fuel filter was clogged
- Clean up rust on muffler and paint
- Change oil and filter – moved oil pump housing round so that new filter fits – it worked!
- Windscreen and headlight squirters not working – fixed old hoses, new one way valve
- Speedometer not functioning – connected cable
- Fix fuel level sender – and low fuel light, maybe?
- Horn not working, again – bad connection at fuse (#1)
- Check valve clearances – perhaps a touch tight?
- Grease steering knuckle(s)
- Repaired flasher relay
- Parking brake light switch – made Fiero switch fit
- Rear brakes – replaced rear pads, fixed parking brake cable
- Rear speaker not working – re-wired and removed centre speaker
- Changed spark plug wires
- Radio not working – replaced with new
- Exhaust hangers damaged – repaired/replaced
- Tailpipe fallen off – welded Mustang tailpipe on
- Need new battery – thanks again John
- Fuse 7 keeps blowing – fixed short in seat belt warning lamp connector
- Rear wiper has no power – refurbished motor
- Fuel pumps not working – installed new pump, Walbro 255
- Made seat brackets
- Seats falling apart – replaced with tatty but comfy Type R seats
- Driver’s seat sliders seized – new sliders $20!
- Headlights don’t work – installed new lamps
- Headlights don’t pop up