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Monday 15th July

I was not happy with the handling on the RMZ 250 after riding the YZ250F again, checked the static sag and it seemed to suggest that the spring is too stiff. An aftermarket spring is about $200, not sure about fork springs. Even with new springs it looks like the suspension has been into MCR Suspension probably for re-valving?? So decided to list it and get something else but ended up buying another RMZ, check it out here.

Sunday 23rd June

Finally some nice weather and good track conditions. GoPro mounts installed, all the bikes seem to be running ok. Jake wasn’t afraid to have a go at sending it over jump 9 …

Tracks in the Greater Toronto Area

RJ’s Motosports

Location: Midhurst, Barrie
Tracks: Two – main and 50cc
Comments:  The main track is great and suitable for all riders, beginners to experts, although beginners might find it a bit intimidating at first.  Limited facilities and very limited opening times, friendly atmosphere.

Motopark

Location: Chatsworth
Tracks: Three – main, beginner and learner
Comments: Lots of facilities including cafe, paintball, washrooms/showers, camping, frequent open times.

The 15 Practice Track

Location: Woodstock
Tracks: One
Comments: Secret club?  Only has Facebook page with minimum information for website.

Gopher Dunes

Location: Tillsonburg
Tracks: Four – main, arenacross, peewee and beginner, plus trails
Comments: Sandy

Walton Raceway

Location: Goderich
Tracks: Two? – main and 50cc
Comments: ?

2003 Suzuki RM65

I picked this up for the little guy, looks to be in good shape. The clutch bites late so it might need new plates and it has a DEP exhaust that makes the power band a bit too vicious for him to learn clutch and gears with so I’ll try to pick up a stock exhaust. Tried installing the flywheel weight tonight but it fouls the cover. The chain was extremely loose and despite what I thought, there was enough adjustment left to get it in spec, I also need to install the new fork seals that came with it.

Bit of a big step up from the PW80 but I think he’ll be ripping this around in no time.

Notes

RM 65 parts list and exploded diagrams

To do

  • Install split pins in the axles
  • Change gearbox oil
  • Find stock exhaust? – Might not need this, Zak is already starting to hit the power band

Completed

May – June 2019

  • Loctite kick-start screw
  • Gas leaking from carb – reset float height, turned out to be the hose from the tank to the carb was too short and wasn’t sealing

April 2019

  • Fork seals are still leaking?? – Josh took them to his co-op at TSR to re-seat the seals
  • Torque handlebar clamps
  • Set suspension to stock settings
  • Install fork seals – with AMSoil synthetic fork oil
  • Adjust chain
  • Tried to install flywheel weight – no go, fouls on the casing
  • Adjusted handlebars
  • Replaced screw in kickstart with hex bolt, missing bolt from flywheel cover, missing bolt from rear brake guard
  • Seated carb properly

2011 Nissan Juke SL

1.6L direct injection turbo 190HP
Front wheel drive
5 doors

6 speed manual
2960 lbs
5 seats

Josh was looking for a car but when I saw this going for a good price, my family convinced me to jump on it and give Josh the Golf GTI. It has 250,000 Kms but the seller rust proofed the underside for me and it came with new brakes all round and all season tires.

To Do

  • Fix vacuum leak – erratic idle, P0101 MAF sensor range issue, STFT at about 10 but goes down to 0 at 2000rpm. Tried smoke machine and soapy water but could not find any sign of a leak – maybe needs to be warm?
  • Lowering springs – when Josh orders his for the Golf
  • Get rims for winter tires
  • Tune ECU?

Completed

June 2019

AC not blowing cold – took it in to a local garage for system health check, they couldn’t find any leaks so told them to top up the coolant and we’ll see how it goes – $450!!!!! Seems a lot to me when the DIY kits are about $70 but they also use a conditioner that helps maintain the seals.
They also said that the cabin air filter needed replacing and one of the CV boots was torn, I got a filter from CT for $40 and installed myself and booked it in again for the CV boot (the Porsche is not reliable enough yet for me to tackle the boot on a weekend).

Checked the oil level at the weekend and it was almost off the bottom of the dipstick!!! Topped it up and will keep a closer eye on it but there’s no sign of drips underneath so it’s likely blowing past the piston rings and if that’s the case, it will mean major surgery.

May 2019

Since I have upgraded the air filter and muffler and deleted the resonator, I think I’m probably over 200HP now so I felt justified in having Rick make me a Nismo badge, installed it last night.

The CEL came on at the weekend with P0101 MAF out of range code again. Cleaned the MAF sensor again and checked the wiring, then cleared the code but it came back immediately?? Checked for vacuum leaks by spraying Quick Start (ether) around the engine bay but it seemed fine. Cleared the code again, stayed off for 2 days so far.

Idle was a bit off on the way home from work, it could be relearning stuff after the muffler but just in case, I cleaned the throttle valve with Sea Foam and a cotton bud.

Stillen Muffler: Picked this up from a guy on Kijiji, traded for an Xbox 360. When I checked mine, it is quite different and has no flange at the muffler. In fact since there was no flange installed when the resonator was deleted, the entire exhaust from the turbo back is all one piece including the cat!
It took some cutting and welding with a couple of adapters but we got it installed and I think it sounds great! Also made a significant difference to the performance, Stillen suggest +13HP and that seems about right to me, it definitely pulls better and is generally a better/smoother drive.

Tuning: it seems that getting a tune on this thing is not going to be easy. A lot of places say they can’t connect to the ECU and the ones that can want mega bucks (like $1100) and haven’t even tuned a Juke before – crazy if you ask me! The best option so far seems to be an ECU-Tek Programming Kit from Visconti that works out at about $960 with shipping and allows me to flash the ECU with ‘off the shelf’ roms. It’s a lot of money for something that is licensed to ONLY one vehicle and might well only be used once.

April 2019

  • CEL P0101 MAF Sensor Circuit Range/Performance – cleaned MAF Sensor
  • Straight pipe resonator – $120 at RJ’s

CEL Misfire on Cyl #4 – New spark plugs, NGK 91215 DILKAR7C9H, also swapped coils 1 and 4 When I punched it to overtake someone the other day, I started getting some hesitation and then the CEL started flashing indicating that there had been some misfires. I pulled the pending code that indicated the misfire was on cylinder 4 only so I figured the first place to start was spark plugs. CarQuest was able to get me some at a very reasonable price so I ordered 4 and installed them, also swapped coils on cylinders 1 and 4 just in case. The plug in cylinder 4 was the worst and was well worn, wouldn’t be surprised if it was original!

  • Check exhaust for leaks – small hole in resonator, cat flange rusted
  • Oil change
  • Install new K&N air filter $79
  • Adjust parking brake

2010 Suzuki RM-Z 250

Just picked this up (Jan 2019), really wasn’t sure about getting another 4 stroke but couldn’t find a nice 2 stroke and got a great deal on this.

RMZasrec4 RMZasrec3

RMZasrec2 RMZasrec1

Notes

RM-Z 250 parts list and exploded diagrams
Jun 2019
Race sag = 98mm, static sag = 46mm – static sag is too high, need softer spring
Jan 2019
Race sag = 95mm, static sag = 41mm, preload length 255mm
All damper settings set to stock
Valve clearances:
Exhaust 0.17 – 0.24mm (0.007 – 0.009″)
Actuals Jan 2019: L 0.178mm, R 0.178mm
Intake 0.09 – 0.16mm (0.0035 – 0.006″)
Actuals Jan 2019: L 0.152mm, R 0.127mm

To Do List

  • Sell?
  • Front brake rotor

Completed Tasks

July 2019

  • Install new fork protector rings
  • Installed stock levers
  • Removed Yoshimura exhaust

June 2019 - show more

May 2019 - show more

Mar 2019 - show more

Feb 2019 - show more

Jan 2019 - show more

2013 Oset 20.0 Electric Trials Bike

 AsReceived1AsReceived2

Saw this on Kijiji and thought it would be good for us all to play with and even for the wife to use as a pit bike at the MX track.  Sadly when I got it home I found that most of the stuff I was told about it was not accurate …

“Brand new rear rim and hub assembly” – really, with dirt all over the hub and sprocket, a bent spoke with broken nipple and a dent in the rim???
“Upgraded battery pack” – looks like 4 x 10Ah SLA batteries to me, same as stock, what’s upgraded about it?
“It’s only been ridden about half a dozen times” – it’s 5 years old!  And I suppose that in those 12 hours (charge lasts about 2 hours) the rear tire was worn down, and a lot of the stickers fell off???
Also, the rebound adjuster on both the forks AND shock was damaged so they wouldn’t turn, the rear end has been smashed so hard that the mount screw for the rear shock was bent and the bushing trashed, the steel bead in the rear tire was all bent, the front mudguard was snapped in half, there was no air pressure in the forks and the battery cover was under the battery.
Oh well, this all just shows that I should perhaps not be so trusting and do a better job of inspecting stuff before I buy.

Set to work on it.  No room in the garage, sat it in the trailer,

WIP1After the MaxTakeoff treatment,

Ready to rollThe torque on this thing is insane, but being a trials bike, it’s not very fast.  You need to be super careful with the throttle response setting and it takes a bit of getting used to especially when riding slowly.  It’s really designed for kids 9-12 years old but it is well made with decent components and easily copes with my 5’9″ and 160lbs.  I was sold on it after watching this video,

Enclosed Trailer

We’re planning on frequent visits to the track this year and I wanted to be able to transport all 4 dirt bikes and keep all the riding gear out of the rain.  We rented an open trailer from U-Haul last summer when we went camping but it was only 5’x8′ so could only really fit 3 bikes.  I was looking at bigger open trailers but I soon found that I would have to increase my budget or buy brand new from Canadian Tire where I could get interest free equal payments on their credit card.  As usual, the budget crept up until I found this 6’x10′ enclosed trailer.

TrailerAsRec

It has some issues but seems to be pretty solid and once I’ve cleared out the shelving, I think we should be able to get 4 bikes in.

To Do List

  • Swap rear barn doors for a ramp door
  • Install rack at rear to hold bikes instead of door frame
  • Install skylight/vent
  • Paint frame again
  • Swap tires onto new wheels

Completed Tasks

  • Attach roof rack half to the A arms at the front
  • Make container smaller ready for bigger bikes
  • Find a way to secure the container to the floor – screwed blocks to the floor
  • Replace side marker lights
  • Remove sticker residue from back and sides – scraped off with Goo Gone and elbow grease!
  • Paint new wheels
  • Find a spare wheel, 205 75 R15 – Picked up 2 for $25 off Kijiji, cleaned up nice
  • Paint frame underneath and welded door supports – 60% complete
  • Bought new ratchet tie-downs for front bikes
  • Make some ramps – made one that locates on bottom door lock
  • Tidy up wheels – wire brushed and painted
  • Install new PS tail marker light
  • Tighten and grease wheel bearings, replace caps
  • Offer up all 4 dirt bikes
  • Repair side marker light and install new bulb in left tail light
  • Install tie-down anchors at front
  • Install shelf at front
  • Repair rear door supports – both had come away from the frame at the bottom, found that the screws are 8 point Robertson, removed frame, peeled back the panel and welded some metal brackets on 2 sides to re-attach supports to the frame
  • Purchase magnetic light
  • Register trailer and install plate
  • Obtain more tie-down anchors – 8 for $25 off Kijiji
  • Fix interior panel at rear
  • Remove all shelving
  • Fix wiring for lights – bad joints at the connector
  • Pick up 2 x padlocks for hitch and door

Sure enough there’s a good bit of room even with all the bikes loaded.

Loaded1

So I made a box to put the toolbox and gas cans in.

Loaded2

2007 Yamaha YZ250F

Check out this sweet end of season deal!

07YZ250F-1

Now with the new seat,

YZ250F-9

Notes

YZ250Fw parts list and exploded diagrams
Valve clearances:
Exhaust 0.17 – 0.22mm (0.0067 – 0.0087″)
Actuals Dec2017: L 0.203mm, R 0.178mm
Actuals Jun2018: L 0.203mm, R 0.178+mm
Actuals Dec2018: L 0.178mm, R 0.178mm
Shims: L 1.72mm, R 1.75mm
New Shims: L 1.70mm, R 1.73mm
Actuals Jan2019: L 0.203mm, R 0.178+mm

Intake 0.10 – 0.15mm (0.0039 – 0.0059″)
Actuals Dec2017: L 0.102mm, M 0.102mm, R 0.127mm
Actuals Jun2018: L 0.127mm, M 0.127mm, R 0.127mm
Actuals Dec2018: L 0.102mm, M 0.127mm, R 0.127mm
Shims: L 1.76mm, M 1.73mm, R 1.72mm
New Shims: L 1.72mm, M 1.72mm, R 1.70mm
Actuals Jan2019: L 0.152mm, M 0.127mm, R 0.152

Aug 18: Backed off pilot air screw ~1/4 turn to address hanging idle and tough warm starts (although we weren’t following the procedure in the manual)

To Do List

  • Replace upper rear shock bearing – got a set of bearings but there isn’t much play at all, probably install them next winter
  • New front brake lever

Completed Tasks

June 2019

  • Replace broken ASV clutch lever screw – Josh picked one up from TSR

Feb 2019

  • Oil and filter change – AMSOIL synthetic

Jan 2019

  • Re-fill with coolant
  • Install new head gasket
  • Check piston and con rod, visually inspect crank – looks good
  • Check valve clearances
  • Repacked muffler

Before 2019

2003 KTM 125sx

After losing confidence in the YZ250F reliability due to the valve failure, I listed it on Kijiji for trade for a 2 stroke.  I was offered a 2004 KTM 125sx that was ‘ready to ride’ and when I checked the reviews, this was the year that they sorted out the poor rear suspension.  So I met the guy and my heart sank when I saw the condition of the bike and the huge dent in the expansion chamber but it started ok and sounded alright and for some reason, I went through with the trade.  When I ran the VIN, I found out that it is actually a 2003, great but at least the VIN was not reported stolen.

POS1POS2

When I got it home and started looking closer I found all sorts of little issues, front fender wobbling, play in front wheel bearings and rear shock lower bearing, bent rear sub frame, fork seals leaking, it looks like this poor thing has just been neglected – I would not class this as ready to ride.  It amazes me how people will sell something without even washing it???  Pretty disappointed with the accuracy of the description but I could have walked away and the issues really are relatively minor … so far.  So I got started on fixing it up, here’s a more recent pic,

POS3

Notes

125sx parts list and exploded diagrams
Jan 2010
Race sags: Josh/Jake = 95mm, Stu = 114mm, static sag = 44mm
Jet needle set to middle notch
24 Aug 2018
Compression damping on rear shock = stock + 2 clicks
Compression damping on forks = stock – 6 clicks
Jet needle lowered to 2nd notch from top to address mid throttle sputter – we’ll see??
Original
Race sag (Stu) = 105mm, static sag = 30mm

To Do List

  • Repair left side air scoop mount on tank

Completed Tasks

Jun 2019

  • Dropped the forks through the yolks so they were flush to try and address tank slappers

Previous

  • Give it a good wash
  • Fix wobble in front mudguard – Front brake cable clamp is missing that provided a spacer, put large washers in for now; new brake cable clamp installed
  • Fix huge cracks in rear mudguard – Used the old tie wrap stitching trick
  • Fix dent in exhaust
  • Remove seat cover – original cover still underneath with only minor tears
  • Bend radiator mount tabs back, prevent them from fouling the forks
  • Threads damaged on oil level check screw – replaced with radiator mount screw since replacement screw had larger (10mm) head
  • Replace worn vent screw in fork cap – not needed, with good screwdriver not much effort is required to undo
  • Check rear brake cylinder, push rod comes out? – looks like it could be normal on parts diagram but the rod is well corroded
  • Replace front wheel bearings
  • Replace rear shock lower mount bearing – replaced with MSR bearing, not teflon
  • Fix seized rebound adjust screw on rear shock – got a 2007 XC-W shock PN 12178C04 mono compression control
  • Fix spring on kick-start shaft – ratchet gear was mis-aligned on shaft – rectified
  • Replace fork seals – refilled with AMSOIL SAE 5 synthetic
  • Thread in left side fork protector mount hole damaged – one or two threads seem ok, new screw held in with thread lock
  • Install new piston – plenty of blow-by on piston skirt, got Wossner piston and ring (awesome!) and new small end bearing
  • Cylinder stud broken, the nut and top of stud were glued in place!!! WTF?!?! – got the old one out with stud remover, installed new
  • Screw and bucket holding the rubber chain guard on the swing arm missing – threads in hole on swing arm trashed, aluminum is thin on swing arm not much there to hold heli-coil, tried tapping to M6 and thread locking, not overly happy with it though
  • Ball bearing for kick start – thanks Dan and TSR
  • New right side drain plug M10x1 – threads in clutch cover are trashed!  There is a bit of the old threads left but the drain bolt slips straight in, tried installing an M10x1.5 Fix-A-Thred insert in the remaining threads but the hole was too small.  Plugged with high heat JB Weld
  • Threads in oil level check screw are trashed – repaired with Fix-A-Thred repair kit
  • Fix broken arm on sub frame – Josh welded it up in auto class.  Update: the weld failed so a small steel bar was fashioned and inserted.  Thought about filling around the bar with JB Weld or drilling holes and holding in place with screws but the bar was a tight fit and there should not be any load trying to pull it out the back of the bike so I think it’s good now
  • Spring for rear brake lever is missing – bought new one
  • Clutch basket and inner hub are both damaged – replaced with used parts found on ebay
  • Clutch holding tool required – used impact driver
  • Replace spark plug – ordered from Fortnine
  • Install new clutch actuator gasket, screw and banjo washer – screw was too long?? had to cut one down
  • Get mineral oil for clutch, top up and bleed clutch actuator – also bled the front brake again
  • Little play in rear wheel – replace bearings, ordered from Fortnine with grips
  • Installed new grips
  • Set race sag and suspension settings to stock – race sag = 105mm, static sag = 30mm, compression damping on rear shock = stock + 1 click
  • Clean rear rim
  • Install new Shinko rear that came with the bike
  • Adjust chain tension
  • Loctite the handlebar perch mount screws
  • New front tire – picked up a very lightly used Dunlop Geomax
  • Split engine and remove crank (big end bearing seized)
  • Install new Hot Rods crank and new bearings
  • Check power valve z dimension
  • Teach the lad how to short shift
  • Properly repaired the rear subframe using a strip of steel drillled and tapped to take 4 M6 machine screws and replaced all the broken zip ties

SXsubframe

Getting there