Saw this on Kijiji and thought it would be good for us all to play with and even for the wife to use as a pit bike at the MX track.  Sadly when I got it home I found that most of the stuff I was told about it was not accurate …

“Brand new rear rim and hub assembly” – really, with dirt all over the hub and sprocket, a bent spoke with broken nipple and a dent in the rim???
“Upgraded battery pack” – looks like 4 x 10Ah SLA batteries to me, same as stock, what’s upgraded about it?
“It’s only been ridden about half a dozen times” – it’s 5 years old!  And I suppose that in those 12 hours (charge lasts about 2 hours) the rear tire was worn down, and a lot of the stickers fell off???
Also, the rebound adjuster on both the forks AND shock was damaged so they wouldn’t turn, the rear end has been smashed so hard that the mount screw for the rear shock was bent and the bushing trashed, the steel bead in the rear tire was all bent, the front mudguard was snapped in half, there was no air pressure in the forks and the battery cover was under the battery.
Oh well, this all just shows that I should perhaps not be so trusting and do a better job of inspecting stuff before I buy.

Set to work on it.  No room in the garage, sat it in the trailer,

After the MaxTakeoff treatment,

The torque on this thing is insane, but being a trials bike, it’s not very fast.  You need to be super careful with the throttle response setting and it takes a bit of getting used to especially when riding slowly.  It’s really designed for kids 9-12 years old but it is well made with decent components and easily copes with my 5’9″ and 160lbs.  I was sold on it after watching this video,

We’re planning on frequent visits to the track this year and I wanted to be able to transport all 4 dirt bikes and keep all the riding gear out of the rain.  We rented an open trailer from U-Haul last summer when we went camping but it was only 5’x8′ so could only really fit 3 bikes.  I was looking at bigger open trailers but I soon found that I would have to increase my budget or buy brand new from Canadian Tire where I could get interest free equal payments on their credit card.  As usual, the budget crept up until I found this 6’x10′ enclosed trailer.

It has some issues but seems to be pretty solid and once I’ve cleared out the shelving, I think we should be able to get 4 bikes in.

To Do List

• Attach roof rack half to the A arms at the front
• Make container smaller ready for bigger bikes
• Install rack at rear to hold bikes instead of door frame
• Install skylight/vent
• Paint frame again
• Swap tires onto new wheels

Completed Tasks

• Find a way to secure the container to the floor – screwed blocks to the floor
• Replace side marker lights
• Remove sticker residue from back and sides – scraped off with Goo Gone and elbow grease!
• Paint new wheels
• Find a spare wheel, 205 75 R15 – Picked up 2 for $25 off Kijiji, cleaned up nice
• Paint frame underneath and welded door supports – 60% complete
• Bought new ratchet tie-downs for front bikes
• Make some ramps – made one that locates on bottom door lock
• Tidy up wheels – wire brushed and painted
• Install new PS tail marker light
• Tighten and grease wheel bearings, replace caps
• Offer up all 4 dirt bikes
• Repair side marker light and install new bulb in left tail light
• Install tie-down anchors at front
• Install shelf at front
• Repair rear door supports – both had come away from the frame at the bottom, found that the screws are 8 point Robertson, removed frame, peeled back the panel and welded some metal brackets on 2 sides to re-attach supports to the frame
• Purchase magnetic light
• Register trailer and install plate
• Obtain more tie-down anchors – 8 for $25 off Kijiji
• Fix interior panel at rear
• Remove all shelving
• Fix wiring for lights – bad joints at the connector
• Pick up 2 x padlocks for hitch and door

Sure enough there’s a good bit of room even with all the bikes loaded.

So I made a box to put the toolbox and gas cans in.

Check out this sweet end of season deal!

Now with the new seat,

Notes

YZ250Fw parts list and exploded diagrams
Valve clearances:
Intake spec 0.10 – 0.15mm (0.0039 – 0.0059″)
Exhaust spec 0.17 – 0.22mm (0.0067 – 0.0087″)
Dec2017
Intake: L 0.102mm, M 0.102mm, R 0.127mm
Exhaust: L 0.203mm, R 0.178mm
Jun2018 (3-4 hours)
Intake: L 0.127mm, M 0.127mm, R 0.127mm
Exhaust: L 0.203mm, R 0.178+mm
24 Aug 2018
Backed off pilot air screw ~1/4 turn to address hanging idle and tough warm starts (although we weren’t following the procedure in the manual)

To Do List

• Replace upper rear shock bearing
• Replace kick start lever or do better fix
• New front brake lever

Completed Tasks

• New front brake reservoir screws – thanks TSR
• Set race sag and suspension settings to stock
• New tires – Bridgestone Battlecross, needed a new inner tube as well since someone had used a bicycle tube and a load of tape!!?!
• New front brake pads – EBC sintered
• Install new grips
• Seat has been cut down, new seat
• Replace fork seals – used Motul Factory Line 2.5wt fork oil on recommendation from JWR Suspension
• Oil change
• Very small amount of play in front wheel bearings, replace
• Check valve clearances –
  Dec 2017
  Intake L 0.102mm, M 0.102mm, R 0.127mm
  Exhaust L 0.203mm, R 0.178mm
• Check for any play in main bearings – none at all, sweet!!
• Move kick start away from frame

After losing confidence in the YZ250F reliability due to the valve failure, I listed it on Kijiji for trade for a 2 stroke.  I was offered a 2004 KTM 125sx that was ‘ready to ride’ and when I checked the reviews, this was the year that they sorted out the poor rear suspension.  So I met the guy and my heart sank when I saw the condition of the bike and the huge dent in the expansion chamber but it started ok and sounded alright and for some reason, I went through with the trade.  When I ran the VIN, I found out that it is actually a 2003, great but at least the VIN was not reported stolen.

When I got it home and started looking closer I found all sorts of little issues, front fender wobbling, play in front wheel bearings and rear shock lower bearing, bent rear sub frame, fork seals leaking, it looks like this poor thing has just been neglected – I would not class this as ready to ride.  It amazes me how people will sell something without even washing it???  Pretty disappointed with the accuracy of the description but I could have walked away and the issues really are relatively minor … so far.  So I got started on fixing it up, here’s a more recent pic,

Notes

125sx parts list and exploded diagrams
Race sag = 105mm, static sag = 30mm
24 Aug 2018
Compression damping on rear shock = stock + 2 clicks
Compression damping on forks = stock – 6 clicks
Jet needle lowered to 2nd notch from top to address mid throttle sputter – we’ll see??

To Do List

• Ride

Completed Tasks

• Give it a good wash
• Fix wobble in front mudguard – Front brake cable clamp is missing that provided a spacer, put large washers in for now; new brake cable clamp installed
• Fix huge cracks in rear mudguard – Used the old tie wrap stitching trick
• Fix dent in exhaust
• Remove seat cover – original cover still underneath with only minor tears
• Bend radiator mount tabs back, prevent them from fouling the forks
• Threads damaged on oil level check screw – replaced with radiator mount screw since replacement screw had larger (10mm) head
• Replace worn vent screw in fork cap – not needed, with good screwdriver not much effort is required to undo
• Check rear brake cylinder, push rod comes out? – looks like it could be normal on parts diagram but the rod is well corroded
• Replace front wheel bearings
• Replace rear shock lower mount bearing – replaced with MSR bearing, not teflon
• Fix seized rebound adjust screw on rear shock – got a 2007 XC-W shock PN 12178C04 mono compression control
• Fix spring on kick-start shaft – ratchet gear was mis-aligned on shaft – rectified
• Replace fork seals – refilled with AMSOIL SAE 5 synthetic
• Thread in left side fork protector mount hole damaged – one or two threads seem ok, new screw held in with thread lock
• Install new piston – plenty of blow-by on piston skirt, got Wossner piston and ring (awesome!) and new small end bearing
• Cylinder stud broken, the nut and top of stud were glued in place!!! WTF?!?! – got the old one out with stud remover, installed new
• Screw and bucket holding the rubber chain guard on the swing arm missing – threads in hole on swing arm trashed, aluminum is thin on swing arm not much there to hold heli-coil, tried tapping to M6 and thread locking, not overly happy with it though
• Ball bearing for kick start – thanks Dan and TSR
• New right side drain plug M10x1 – threads in clutch cover are trashed!  There is a bit of the old threads left but the drain bolt slips straight in, tried installing an M10x1.5 Fix-A-Thred insert in the remaining threads but the hole was too small.  Plugged with high heat JB Weld
• Threads in oil level check screw are trashed – repaired with Fix-A-Thred repair kit
• Fix broken arm on sub frame – Josh welded it up in auto class.  Update: the weld failed so a small steel bar was fashioned and inserted.  Thought about filling around the bar with JB Weld or drilling holes and holding in place with screws but the bar was a tight fit and there should not be any load trying to pull it out the back of the bike so I think it’s good now
• Spring for rear brake lever is missing – bought new one
• Clutch basket and inner hub are both damaged – replaced with used parts found on ebay
• Clutch holding tool required – used impact driver
• Replace spark plug – ordered from Fortnine
• Install new clutch actuator gasket, screw and banjo washer – screw was too long?? had to cut one down
• Get mineral oil for clutch, top up and bleed clutch actuator – also bled the front brake again
• Little play in rear wheel – replace bearings, ordered from Fortnine with grips
• Installed new grips
• Set race sag and suspension settings to stock – race sag = 105mm, static sag = 30mm, compression damping on rear shock = stock + 1 click
• Clean rear rim
• Install new Shinko rear that came with the bike
• Adjust chain tension
• Loctite the handlebar perch mount screws
• New front tire – picked up a very lightly used Dunlop Geomax
• Split engine and remove crank (big end bearing seized)
• Install new Hot Rods crank and new bearings
• Check power valve z dimension
• Teach the lad how to short shift
• Properly repaired the rear subframe using a strip of steel drillled and tapped to take 4 M6 machine screws and replaced all the broken zip ties

My older kids at 13 and 16 didn’t have experience of riding motorbikes with gears and the RM125 was way too intimidating for them to learn on so I wanted to find something a bit more manageable.  The 80cc bikes seemed a bit small so when I saw this KX100 listed for a reasonable price, I jumped on it.  It has been trail ridden by the previous owners and has a flywheel weight that helps keep it from stalling at low revs – perfect for newer riders.

Notes

KX100 parts and exploded diagrams

To Do List

• ?

Completed Tasks

• Install new inner tubes front and rear
• Remove flywheel weight once the kids have got used to the bike
• Dang gear lever keeps coming loose – loctite screw
• Remove hand guards
• Change gear oil
• Install new gear lever
• Replace gear change shaft
• Tie wrap cracked plastics
• Remove side stand

The little guy was way too big for the PW50 so started looking for an upgrade.  I found a couple of 4 stroke TTR90s but didn’t get any replies and once the little guy got wind of a potential bike change, he put the pressure on!  I found this PW80 fairly close by and it was listed as having ownership and manuals but was in pretty rough shape compared to some others that were a similar price.  We went to see it the day before we went on vacation and as it turned out the guy didn’t have ownership, only some registration paper from the previous owner and no manual???  I should have left it but the guy was firm on his price and my lad was very keen on it (what a surprise) so we paid the money and brought it home.

Here’s what it looked like after a bit of cleaning up.

Notes

PW80 parts and exploded diagrams

To Do List

• Fix gas leak in carb – cleaned float needle valve, again and set float height to 22mm

Completed Tasks

• Replace broken gas tank – installed brand new
• Check rear suspension bearings – seem fine
• Clean up gas tank (oxidization?)
• Straighten handlebars in clamps
• Straighten gear pedal

After only a couple of outings to RJs Motorsports track in Midhurst near Barrie on the old RM125, I was hooked again.  On the second outing I had tuned the suspension and was doing much better but it felt very sensitive to throttle input, like the power band was very narrow.  After riding my kid’s KX100 that had a much smoother power delivery, I started playing with the power-valve setting, however, since the kids now had a bike to ride and I was keen on riding more often, I decided it would be a good idea to get something a bit newer.  Started looking on Kijiji for a newer 125 but people seemed to want a lot of money for them.  I really didn’t want a 4 stroke but most of the bikes at the track were YZ250Fs and I found 3 for sale under $2500 on Kijiji.  My research only turned up glowing reviews of the YZ250F and some people were suggesting they were better than 2 stroke 125s in virtually every way.

Decided to go for it and picked up this 2001, a couple of minor issues but pulls nice and strong and seems to be in good condition.

After tinkering

Notes

YZ250Fn parts list and exploded diagrams

To Do List

• Can be hard to hot start – lowered the idle and then had a tough hot start, opened up pilot fuel screw about 1/16 turn.  I read that these bikes are supposed to idle at around 1800 rpm because with a low idle the cam chain not consistently loaded making them run very rough – new plan, raise the idle back up.  Had a bit of a wandering idle and backfire on shutdown, closed pilot screw 1/8 turn so now is 1/16 turn in from original setting
• Left side radiator guard is missing
• Repair bolt in upper fork yoke, winter?
• Replace main bearings

Completed Tasks

• Repair exhaust stud in cylinder head – investigate thread inserts to repair stud in cylinder head, I assumed there were supposed to be two exhaust studs but checking the parts list and exploded diagram there is only one – check threads in the exhaust bolt hole – got new 2003 head
• Install new head, valves, cams, cam chain, piston and rings
• Tiny bit of play in swing arm – replaced linkage bearings, still some play – traced to a clearance between lower rear shock bolt and ID of bearing inner race, shimmed with coke can.  Similar issue with a clearance between the bolt that connects the linkage to the swing arm and the collars, put old collars back in.  Are these linkage bearing kits not made to tight tolerances???New (used) rear brake lever – made new clevis to replace bolt
• Replaced bolt in upper fork yoke with longer bolt with nut on the end because threads are trashed (not by me!)
• Install new front wheel bearings
• Install new lower shock bearing
• Kick start lever (aluminum) worn – welded blob on steel hub
• New muffler bracket – made one from exhaust hanger band and tool drawer liner
• Repack muffler with FMF standard packing
• Repair huge dent in muffler
• New shouldered bolt for front brake lever
• New rear brake fluid reservoir
• Check valve clearances
• New handlebars (from RMX250) – a touch wide so cut 1/2″ off each end
• Add spacer to spring in kick start lock so it doesn’t vibrate out while riding
• Solder loose wires on pick-up coil
• Remove numbers from side panels

This is how I got started doing a 3800 V6 supercharged engine swap into a Pontiac Fiero …

May 2008
I am now the proud?? owner of a 1985 Pontiac Fiero 2M4, the engine has a broken timing belt so is pretty much done.  I went to the garage and paid the $500 plus $20 for the UVIP even though the seller is supposed to provide it.  You can’t see from the pictures but it is full of crap,  I guess in this case, the poor guy wasn’t intending to sell it before the engine blew so hadn’t tidied it up.

Called up the CAA and got the Fiero towed back to my place.  It cost $60 so I was pleased with that.

Ran up some debt on the credit card on vacation and decided that fixing the Fiero up was a crazy idea so I cleaned it out, took some pictures and listed it on Craigslist and Kijiji for ‘best offer’.
Got some offers ranging from $100 to $1000 for the Fiero but deleted the listings and replaced them with Talon listings, I’ll sell that instead.

Hooked up some jump leads to the Fiero and found that the radio, electric windows and dials all seem to work.  The headlights aren’t working and when the jump leads were removed the dials jumped so that it looks as though it’s going 30km/h with 1600rpm??

Started on removing the old 4 cylinder engine using the excellent guide here.  It’s for a V6 engine but it’s close enough.  Got to step 16, but I skipped step 2 and haven’t yet made a dolly for the engine.  The battery splash guard appears to be missing and the “fuel inlet and return line connectors” weren’t immediately obvious so I thought that would be a good place to stop.  I had a few extra wires running through the firewall as well, not sure what they’re for??

Got up to step 35 in the engine removal guide today. What a pleasure to work on, no seized nuts or broken bolts, hopefully the tap and die set I bought won’t get much use!!! Haven’t taken a picture of the progress since there’s not much to show yet, just a load of loose wires on top of the engine. I’m waiting to do the obligatory ‘jacked up Fiero with engine next to it’ shot.

Wow, the old Iron Duke is out!! Rick came over this morning and helped me push the Fiero into the garage, the wife even managed to steer it in without crashing! Then I set to finishing off the last few steps of the guide. The operation went smoothly so I took the engine and exhaust off the cradle as well. The exhaust was a real PITA because it seemed to be all one-piece and was wrapped all around the engine.

Now I’m committed to replacing the engine, so on with finding a new one …

After much searching on Craigslist and Kijiji, I found a 3800 engine out of a 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP listed for $700 obo. It’s the Buick V6 3800 Series II L67 supercharged engine that I want and has the transmission and computer with it. It also comes with the transmission shift mechanism with the ‘Sport” mode selector but a pulley and belt are missing off the supercharger. I ended up picking it up for $600 but then paid $100 for a hoist so I could get it off the trailer when I got home! Hehehe

The 3800 L67 engine was listed by GM as having an output of 240 hp and 280 lb·ft of torque and the Pontiac Fiero has a curb weight of around 2750 lbs.  If the L67 doesn’t weigh much more than the old Iron Duke, those specs would put this combination very close to a Porsche Boxster as far as power to weight ratio goes.

I got chatting with some guys at work that have dirt bikes and started getting the bug again.  Back in the UK my favourite bike was a 90 odd Suzuki RM125, I didn’t want to spend much money so when I saw this 1992 version going cheap I had to go check it out.  There are some issues with it but I ended up doing a good deal and bringing it home.

Looks like it could be fun once it’s running, I’ll work on it over winter ready for next season.

Here’s how it looked after I had fixed up and was ready to sell it.

To Do List

• NA

Completed

• Fix spring on rear brake lever
• Clean throttle assembly for quick return action
• Replace wiring
• Bike stand – picked up a project stool from Home Depot, thanks to Ion and Eduardo.
• Oil sump plug seal – got a fibre one
• Replace gear oil – old stuff looked in great shape
• New coolant
• Fix ding in front rim
• Straighten rear rim
• New split link for chain – found it!
• Drill and tap new holes in lower fork clamp for mudguard
• Clean carb/throttle slide – emptied the float bowl, checked jets
• Front caliper slider seals – $4 each, thanks TSR
• New front brake lever – $20
• New kill switch – $15, TSR
• New gas – mixed at about 35:1
• No spark, new CDI – 1st one from eBay, 1987 DOA; 2nd one from eBay, unknown year, also
• DOA!  3rd one from eBay, brand new aftermarket, finally it runs!!!
• Repair seat bolt nut(s) – welded new nuts on
• Replace rear shock upper mount bearing – lower replaced as well
• Front number plate – got one off an 89 RM250 $40
• Handlebars – straightened a bit but still not quite right

My kid wanted to learn how to drive a manual gearbox and the winter beater was rusting away so when I saw this going cheap, I jumped on it.

This is my 2002 VW Golf GTI 1.8T and so far I love it! For safety it only needed front rotors and it passed emissions but the CEL came on a few days later.  Pulled the scanner out and found code P0420 – catalytic converter efficiency below threshold, will have to look out for a high flow cat.  Had a look underneath and the resonator is on it’s way out and the hangar between the cat and the resonator was broken – welded it back on and put some JB weld over a leak at a joint.

Took the lad out for a drive and the airbag light came on.  After a bit of Googling I found that a common culprit is the seat belt clip wiring, in particular loose wires in the connector under the seat.  When I checked my clip, I noticed it was wrapped in insulation tape – obviously a previous repair here.  Sure enough as I removed the tape, I found a wire had come out of the clip so I soldered it back in place and taped up the clip.  Then disconnected the battery for 10 mins to clear the light and … it came straight back on!?!  I found a local guy selling VAG scanners for under $50 that can read and clear codes for engine, airbag, ABS and transmission (I know you can get them cheaper but I didn’t want to wait for shipping).  Hooked it up and pulled the code (it was the seat belt clip) and cleared it – now it stays off.  One thing about this scanner, it seems that you can only clear any and all codes in one go, you cannot clear just an airbag code and leave the CEL for example.

Noticed the other day that about 1/2″ at the OD of a front rotor was not being touched by the pad.  Thought perhaps the pads were hung up so I took the caliper off and made sure the pads and sliders were not binding.  When I looked at the opposite side, the inside pad looked like some gravel had worn a groove in it so it was leaving bands of wear on the rotor and the pads were worn uneven in like wedge shapes.  At this point I decided to put new pads on the new rotors – not sure why this wasn’t at least suggested in the safety inspection??

To Do List

• Replace cat – CEL error code 16804
• Fix rust behind front wheels – got a pair of silver fenders from super-neighbour Troy
• Replace muffler – got rear skirt with muffler tip cutout, again from Troy
• Fix rust over windshield 2
• Replace driver’s seatbelt clip
• Replace vacuum S pipe – temporary tube in place until more motivation kicks in

Completed Tasks

• Replace passenger side parking brake cable – caliper was sticking
• Replace fuel filter – not done, can’t remember why I was thinking of changing the filter?
• Fix arm rest lid latch
• Clean throttle body
• New rear rotors
• Install new front pads
• Install new rear pads
• Fix rust over windshield 1 – wire brushed windshield rust and painted flat black, if it holds I might fill over and smooth it out – it started rusting again!